Showing posts with label hair cut. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hair cut. Show all posts

Monday, July 25, 2016

Angled Bob Haircut | Behind the Instagram


This haircut was super fun to do. In the before picture you can see that my client had medium length hair. She has very thick hair, and a lot of it. So going from a longer cut to a much shorter haircut can be difficult for someone with thick hair like this. Texturizing with point cutting or texturizing shears is key in a haircut like this one.

I started the haircut by cutting in the base shape and getting rid of the length. I sectioned from the crown to her ears and worked on the back first. I divided the back section into two down the middle. Then I took small subsections from that center part down to the nape at a 45 degree angle. I took off about 5 inches from the middle back to start. I combed out the section I was going to cut and I angled it towards the center of the part at the same angle as the subsection part.This technique creates the A-line shape of the hair cut. It keeps the hair farthest away from that middle part line longer than the hair closest to the part line. When the first small section is completed it should look like a long arc, not straight across.

I work in clean small sections on the left side then on the right side alternating them the whole way up the hair in the back of her head.
When I had the back done, I moved on the the front sections. Again I took diagonal subsections from the front above the ear and used the hair from the back as my guide to connect the front with the back. I over-directed these front sections so they would stay pretty long in the front.
Once the base of the cut was done, I went in to texturize and add some layers. With thick hair like this, texturizing is a necessity to make the hair cut look the way you want. 

I went in vertical sections starting in the middle back and I point cut out at a slight 45 degree angle (almost 90 at times) to give the hair that stacked effect without getting too short. I did this same thing around the whole back of the head.

To finish the hair cut, I did a tiny bit of face framing and layering throughout the hair so it wasn't too heavy. Making sure to run my hands through the hair to feel for any thicker or heavier sections.

The final touch was a quick blow out and flat iron to smooth everything out. After I finish a cut I like to go back and make sure that everything is where it needs to be, and if something needs to be adjusted this is when I take care of it.


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Tuesday, July 19, 2016

Brown Ombre | Behind the Instagram


This hair color is one of those that are very difficult. My client came in with black box color in her hair. She has been putting this black color on her hair for a few years. 
Black box color is one of the worst colors to put in your hair. Box color in general is made as a "one size fits all" when it comes to hair texture and color, so these chemicals are the strongest and most damaging to the hair. You would never know it since when you finish the at-home color, it looks "healthy" and "shiny." But this is an illusion, and getting rid of box color is not as easy as some may think.

As you can see in the picture below, the client had very long black hair. She has thin hair texture and she didn't want a drastic haircut, just a small trim.
To lighten her hair I mixed up my Matrix lightener with 20 volume developer. I wanted to use a very low developer because since her hair had so much black color on it, I didn't want to damage the hair more than it needed it. And since our goal color was a medium brown I didn't need to lighten the hair too far. We mainly just wanted to remove as much of that black color as we could. 

We let the lightener process for 45 minutes, and I made sure to keep an eye on the hair as it processed.

After washing out the lightener, I quickly rough dried her hair with my blow dryer and we went in to tone the hair.
With just the bleach the hair had lightened very unevenly and spotty. Some spots where still pretty dark and others were an orange tone.
She was going for a black to brown ombre, so we went in with Matrix 6A and 10 volume developer as the toner. I used 6A because we were going for a light/medium brown and we also were trying to cancel out as much of that unwanted orange tone with the ash. 
I let the color process for the full 35 minutes to make sure we got as much color pay off as possible.

The last few steps were to give her a quick trim and a quick blowout.

The blend between the black and the brown was very soft and pretty, I really enjoyed doing this color. It was a challenge and it took a few hours, but in the end it turned out like what the client wanted.