Tuesday, July 19, 2016

Brown Ombre | Behind the Instagram

This hair color is one of those that are very difficult. My client came in with black box color in her hair. She has been putting this black color on her hair for a few years. 
Black box color is one of the worst colors to put in your hair. Box color in general is made as a "one size fits all" when it comes to hair texture and color, so these chemicals are the strongest and most damaging to the hair. You would never know it since when you finish the at-home color, it looks "healthy" and "shiny." But this is an illusion, and getting rid of box color is not as easy as some may think.

As you can see in the picture below, the client had very long black hair. She has thin hair texture and she didn't want a drastic haircut, just a small trim.
To lighten her hair I mixed up my Matrix lightener with 20 volume developer. I wanted to use a very low developer because since her hair had so much black color on it, I didn't want to damage the hair more than it needed it. And since our goal color was a medium brown I didn't need to lighten the hair too far. We mainly just wanted to remove as much of that black color as we could. 

We let the lightener process for 45 minutes, and I made sure to keep an eye on the hair as it processed.

After washing out the lightener, I quickly rough dried her hair with my blow dryer and we went in to tone the hair.
With just the bleach the hair had lightened very unevenly and spotty. Some spots where still pretty dark and others were an orange tone.
She was going for a black to brown ombre, so we went in with Matrix 6A and 10 volume developer as the toner. I used 6A because we were going for a light/medium brown and we also were trying to cancel out as much of that unwanted orange tone with the ash. 
I let the color process for the full 35 minutes to make sure we got as much color pay off as possible.

The last few steps were to give her a quick trim and a quick blowout.

The blend between the black and the brown was very soft and pretty, I really enjoyed doing this color. It was a challenge and it took a few hours, but in the end it turned out like what the client wanted. 

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